Tags

Activity Industry Sector
Building Trades and Construction

Activity Originally Created By: Mike Morris

Demonstration/Router usage

Part of Lesson Plan: Router Safety

Activity Overview / Details

Teacher will demonstrate safe operation of a router.

This is general information you might want to use to explain what a router is and how to use it.

The woodworking router is one of the most versatile tools in the workshop. Often it is used to cut shapes and profiles into the edge of wood or to dig into materials using a template to make signs or cut holes for mitering worktops.

There are a wide range of cutters and bits available for whatever application you can think of.

There are 2 different types of router - fixed base and plunge - here are the main features of each

Fixed Base Router


The fixed base router is in effect a motor and a base plate and is limited to edge routing and cutting in from the outside of the wood. With a fixed base router, the depth of cut is set before you turn the router on. The lack of a plunge mechanism tends to make these routers lighter and less expensive. This machine allows everything the plunge router can do except cut out and plunge cuts.

Plunge Router


The plunge router can be used as a fixed base router but can also be used to cut into the wood using the plunge mechanism. A plunge router allows you to adjust the depth of cut while the router is turned on. This feature can come in handy when you need to make multiple passes on a board, taking off a little more wood with each pass. Plunge routers often have depth stops that can be used to accurately plunge the router to the appropriate depth while in use. Plunge routers can also be used to cut mortises, stopped grooves, dados, and incised letters (with special jigs). However, the plunge mechanism adds weight to the router. Plunge routers are more versatile than fixed base routers

Here are some important considerations when deciding on what router you buy.

Power


Note that routers are rated for power on the Horse Power scale. A 2-HP router gives you 2-HP at the absolute maximum of its output, not during day to day use. The rated amperage is a much better method for comparing actual router power output when you're making your router decision.

Bit Size and Bit Changing


The bit shank size of your next router should be another important factor in your decision making. Routers typically take bit shanks in these three sizes: 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Take a look at the projects you want to complete and the availability of bit sizes you need for these projects. This should be a good guide for you in picking out the bit shank size that will work for you. Note also that the most common shank size is 1/2".

Before buying your next router either hold one in your hand and find out how easy it is to change bits or dig into woodworking forums to see what others have thought about ease of bit changing. The "hold it in your hand" rule also applies to the power button - when router designers get usability wrong it's often in these two areas. Further, in regard to switches, make sure that your router can "lock" in the on position if you plan to use it on a table.

Switches


The type and placement of a router's power switch varies depending on the manufacturer. Generally there are two different switch styles: "Toggle Switches" and "Trigger Switches". A toggle switch is similar to a light switch in function. A trigger switch is similar to the switch on a circular saw.  With this type of switch, the router is only ON when the switch is pressed. Some manufacturers use trigger switches that can be locked in the ON position. Generally switch design is not a major issue but if you plan to use a router table, you will need to purchase a router that can be set to run in the ON position by itself

Router Base


Pay special attention to the base plate when choosing a new router. This is the part which is in constant contact with the surface of the material you're working with so it needs to be durable and also needs to be made of a material which will not scratch the material you're working with. Many of the better routers allow the base plates to be easily renewed once worn.

Depth Adjustment and Stop


Ensure the router you choose has a depth stop with a fine adjustment to allow you to finely measure the depth of cut you require.

Guide Fence


A guide fence allows you to cut along the edge of the workpiece. Look for a router which has a guide fence which attaches to the baseplate with 2 rods. The part of the fence which will touch the workpiece should be replaceable and non-scratching.

Here are the basic steps to using a router:

1. Select a bit. For basic cuts, there are two types of bits. An edge bit has a wheel on the bottom that rolls along the edge of the wood. A non-edge bit does not and is used to cut inside the perimeter of the wood piece.

2. Place the bit into the collet without sinking it all the way to the bottom and tighten the collet.

3. Clamp the piece of wood you will be working on very solidly in place. Routers operate at a very high rate of speed and can send an insecure piece of wood spinning through the air.

4. Put on safety glasses

5. Plug in the router and turn on the power switch. Hold onto it with both hands at all times.

6. Move the router across the wood from left to right to avoid splintering from the clockwise motion of the cutting bit. Running the router in a direction opposite to the bit's rotation also keeps it from running out of control. Cut in 1/4-inch increments or less on each pass.